| Abstract | Razvojem tehnologije i tekstilne industrije, krajem 1990-ih i 2000-ih razvija se i poslovni model koji se naziva fast fashion. Fast fashion masovna je proizvodnja jeftine, jednokratne odjeće izrađene nepromišljeno, često bez obzira na utjecaj koji proizvodnja ima na okoliš i pod kojim uvjetima ju radnici tekstilne industrije izrađuju. S obzirom na prekomjernu i nepromišljenu proizvodnju odjeće ovaj poslovni model ima vrlo negativan utjecaj na ekologiju. U proizvodnji i tretiranju različitih materijala industrija stvara problem zagađivanja i prekomjerne potrošnje vode. Zatim, kako procjene sugeriraju, potrošači odjeću s najnižim cijenama smatraju gotovo jednokratnom te ju bacaju nakon samo sedam ili osam nošenja. Tu dolazi do idućeg ekološkog problema, a to je odlaganje tekstilog otpada.Većina odjeće odlazi na odlagališta dok se tek 1% materijala koji se koristi za izradu odjeće reciklira u novu odjeću. Svjetska modna industrija stvara veliku količinu stakleničkih plinova zahvaljujući energiji koja se koristi tijekom proizvodnje i prijevoza milijuna odjevnih predmeta godišnje te time dolazimo do idućeg problema - zagađenja zraka. Budući da se neki materijali, npr. rajon, dobivaju preradom drveća ne čudi informacija da su veliki modni brendovi odgovorni za jedan dio problema prekomjernog krčenja šuma. Osim što je fast fashion veliki neprijatelj prirode, također ima negativan utjecaj na ljudsko zdravlje. Kemikalije i materijali koji se koriste u proizvodnji odjeće mogu imati strašne posljedice na zdravlje čovjeka, primjerice: na imunološki i reproduktivni sustav, središnji živčani sustav, jetru i bubrege, te u nekim slučajevima mogu izazvati rak. Radnici u tekstilnoj industriji susreću se s brojnim problemima: plaće koje im ne omogućuju dostojanstven život, loši zdravstveni i sigurnosti uvjeti, prisilni rad, iskorištavanje djece i brojni drugi. Teška tragedija koja je otkrila neprihvatljive radne uvjete cijele modne industrije je Rana Plaza, tekstilna tvornica u čijem je urušavanju poginulo 1 134 radnika. Ovakve i slične tragedije nažalost nisu rijetkost te je hitno potrebna promjena u cijelom poslovnom modelu prije nego još radnika izgubi svoje živote. Iako je put prema većim promjenama modne industrije još uvijek jako dug, primjera dobre prakse iz dana u dan ima sve više. Neke modne marke zalažu se za održivu modu, proizvode kvalitetnu bezvremensku odjeću te nude potrošačima različite opcije kako bi njihova odjeća imala što duži životni vijek. Također, tu su i brojne udruge, kampanje, zaklade i pokreti kojima je misija zaustaviti fast fashion i okrenuti se prema održivoj modi |
| Abstract (english) | Alongside the development of technology and textile industry, in the late 1990s and 2000s, a business model called “fast fashion” was also developing. Fast fashion is a name for mass production of cheap, disposable clothing, often created recklessly, regardless of the industry’s impact on the environment and the conditions under which the workers are producing. Given its excessive and inconsiderate production of clothing, this business model has a largely negative impact on ecology. In the production and treatment of different materials, the industry overly pollutes and exploits water. Furthermore, suggested by different assessments, consumers often consider cheap items of clothing to be disposable and throw them away after only seven or eight uses. This behaviour creates another problem, which is the textile waste disposal. Majority of the clothing winds up at junk yards, while only 1% of disposed material is recycled into new items of clothing. World fashion industry creates a large amount of greenhouse gasses owing to the energy used during production and distribution of millions of clothing items annually, which leads to the next ecological problem – air pollution. Owing to the fact that some materials, e.g. rayon, are produced by processing wood, it comes as no surprise that big fashion brands are responsible for part of the deforestation problem. Not only is fast fashion a great enemy of nature, it also has a negative influence on people’s health. Chemicals and materials used in production of clothes can have horrifying effects on the immune, reproductive and central nervous system, liver, kidneys, and in some cases can
even cause cancer. Workers in textile industry are facing many problems: payments below the living wage, poor health and safety conditions, forced labour, child labour and many others. A terrible tragedy that uncovered the unacceptable working conditions of the entire fashion industry is Rana Plaza, a textile factory which collapsed and took the lives of 1134 workers. Such and similar tragedies are, unfortunately, not rare, and witness to the need of urgent change in the entire business model before even more workers lose their lives. Even though the journey to major changes in the fashion industry is a long one, the number of examples of good practice continues to grow each day. Some fashion brands advocate sustainable fashion, produce quality and timeless clothing and offer different options to their customers in order to prolong the life of their clothing items. There are also many associations, campaigns and movements whose mission is to stop fast fashion and turn to sustainable fashion. |
